Well-made handguns of suitable caliber are undoubtedly the best short-range tools of killing known to man. A handgun is easy to carry, easy to conceal, and easy to use. Also, it is fairly easy to silence a handgun, which can be very effective for certain, assignments.
When executing a hit it is necessary to bear in mind that no substantial case can be made against anyone, following the killing, if no weapon can be found.
That means that once the job is done, the professional completely destroys and eliminates from existence any firearm they have used in a job.
Getting rid of a piece is always top priority after completing a hit. With the exception of a military sniper, no professional would ever keep a weapon that had been used in the commission of a hit.
A handgun is very easy to dispose of. First off, it isn’t any problem getting rid of a firearm. It would take 15 minutes to totally dismantle a firearm. Second, each and every part can be broken or melted, and then buried or thrown away in a remote area far away from any other parts. Driving all over the city to dispose of a gun is alot easier than getting life in prison for 1st degree murder.
Basic Handgun Assassination Info
When a handgun is used to kill at close-quarters, the distance from which the killer should fire is not more than 4 or 5 feet from target. Although this may sound surprising it’s the only reliable way to use the one-hand gun as an effective assassination piece. For the purpose of killing, the handgun is too inaccurate and too weak an implement of killing to be relied upon over great distances.
The ideal distance for a swift, clean kill is about 6 inches from the target. I am speaking of the distance between gun barrel and point at which the shot is directed.
The technique is simple; the target should be shot in the back of the head, at the base of the brain. It does not take a good marksman from a foot away to hit his mark.
The temple has been suggested as a target in some places. This would be good if firing from a distance with a shoulder weapon. But approaching the target from the side may easily trigger a movement on the target’s part and that could cause a complete mission failure.
Handgun #1 Zipper Technique (For frontal assault)
A method that is effective, though little known, for those rare instances when a frontal approach with a handgun will be required, is the zipper firing technique. This is ideally suited for .22 caliber handgun.
When within a six-foot distance of the target, the handgun is drawn quickly to firing position at target’s waist level. Suddenly open fire and zipper all the shots quickly in a rapid rising string directly up the centerline of the targets body.
Handgun #2 Large Bore Kills
In a case where the weapon being used is a larger caliber model, the zipper technique need not be used. A two or three shot burst should instead be used. Target areas for an effective kill are the stomach, liver, heart, neck, eyes, and brain.
Cops, SWAT, and the like use the double-tap. This is why cops are retards. The double tap may be effective on normal people, but not on crack-heads or drug addicts. A double tap is a shot to the chest and a shot to the head.
Now the chest shot is just fine; the one I have a problem with is the headshot. I’ve heard stories of bullets penetrating the front of the skull, curving around the skull and going out the back. That’s why I’d suggest the throat shot.
Handgun #3 “Rippa” Method
The “Rippa” method (yes that’s me I don’t know if it has a real name or not this is what I thought of but I’m sure it’s used by others). It involves 2 shots to the chest (to stop the heart), followed by a shot to the throat (to stop breathing and paralyze the target by striking the spinal chord), then 2 shots to the eye socket (to seize brain activity).
Handgun #4 Rear Assassination
A rear assassination would be to come up from behind, jab the gun into their backbone and fire at once. This will put him on the ground. Then shoot him in the heart by firing at it through his left shoulder blade. This will kill him. Now shoot him in the back of the head and this will reassure the kill.
Sawed-Off Shotgun Kill
The sawed-off double barrel shotgun is rarely considered for assassination work but the 12 gauge side-by-side or over-and-under loaded with buckshot cartridges will put as many pellets in a person as a S.M.G can do in full-auto. At the ranges mentioned
with the handguns, the shotgun is truly an effective weapon. Normally the barrels are cut off just in front of the forestock and at the butt remains just behind the pistol grip. The weapon can be strapped to the shoulder or placed in a pocket in the jacket.
The shotgun is held under the coat and against the leg. The coat is unbuttoned. When the subject is in position the barrel of the sawed-off pushes the coat open and the left hand comes up for support. Both barrels are discharged in quick, almost simultaneous
action. They immediately go back under cover, and the assassin leaves the scene.
The sniper must be totally trained and accurate with his weapon. He has 216 square inches of target to hit to be in lethal or seriously injurious areas. This is basically from the top of the head to the groin, on an average male about 36 inches from groin to head and roughly 30 inches from arm to arm. The direction the target is faced towards has no real effect on these figures.
The weapon should be suppressed (silenced) to allow for follow-up shots. Using the bolt action rifles such as the US M-40, Remington M-700, and the Robar SR-90. Offer the advantage of not having the bolt sound when the rifle reloads itself.
Then there are automatic rifle such as the SKS, Armalite AR-15, and the HK PSG-1. Which offer the ability to reload itself allowing the assassin the ability for repeated shots at a faster rate.
The choice of weapon, ammo, and sights is left to the sniper-assassin’s discretion as the circumstances for job will be varying.
When assassinating VIP’s it is often necessary to consider the use of armor-piercing bullets due to their choice of armor-plated cars. They also would come in handy for penetrating the bodyguards of the dignitary or any other unfortunate that might step between you and the subject. I would suggest reading up on materials regarding sniping.
Taken for a ride
You’ve probably seen this in alot of mafia movies. In the best tradition of the craft, “being taken for a ride” involves the kidnapping of the subject by capturing him, placing him into the car and taking him to a quiet spot to do him in.
It is usually decided to kill the subject while he is in the car, and certain possible problems arise at this point: Imagine, the car’s interior as an enclosed space (the windows are rolled up to preclude the subject’s crying out or to bar an escape attempt). Firing anything larger than a .22 into him will all but deafen the assassination team.
Ricochets are not uncommon, and a half-spent casing flying around the car, is extremely dangerous. For these reasons, a silent .22 type weapon is used, normally a Ruger MK II, and the larger pistol calibers are avoided.
The subject is set between two men in the back seat and is killed by the passenger in the front who shoots him in the chest and throat. The body slumps forward. Than his head is placed on his knees and he then is shot through the back of his head.
Here is one that is very effective for .22 caliber weapons.
2 Pieces of screen, 6 inch and 8 inch wide by several feet long, some tape and an ordinary lead pencil are all the materials required.
1 Start with the strip of screen wire six inches wide and several feet long and begin wrapping one end around the pencil. Continue to wrap the screen wire around the pencil until the roll is the same diameter as the outside diameter of the barrel on your
2 Use two pieces of tape to prevent the screen wire from unwrapping.
3 Now switch to the strip of screen wire about 8 inches wide. (NOTE: it is suggested that the front end of the barrel be taped to prevent it from being scratched by the screen.
4) Keeping one edge flush with the front of your original roll let the other edge extend back two inches around the barrel. Each time the screen wire is wrapped over the front sight cut a small notch in the wire, so that the sight extends through it, and press
that layer down tightly against the layer beneath it.
Continue wrapping four or five turns until the inner cylinder of screw wire is firmly held to the gun barrel. Cut off any excess length of the screen wire strip.
Finally, wrap the outer part of the roll with two layers of ordinary electrical tape or cloth adhesive tape (duct tape), letting the tape extend back an additional two inches on the bare gun barrel to hold the silencer in place.5 Remove the pencil before firing.
Soft Drink Silencer
The following design is one of the simplest to manufacture, least expensive and yet, one of the most effective of all disposable silencers.
All that is required for construction is an empty 1 or 2 liter plastic soft drink bottle, a 1 or 1 1/2-inch hose clamp and some tape.
The bottle chosen for this purpose must have a reinforcing ring on the bottom portion that this is necessary to prevent the bottle from splitting upon discharge. There are several brands of soft drink that have this reinforcing ring, so get one that you will enjoy drinking.
This unit is only effective for a few shots, as the noise level will increase with each successive shot, due to the enlarging exit hole at the bottom of the bottle.
Begin construction by measuring the inside diameter of the bottleneck with the diameter of the barrel. If the diameter of the barrel is smaller, bring it up to the required size by using electrical tape. (NOTE: With some weapons you will need to make a slot on
the bottle neck for the front sight. Make it a tight fit!).
Next slip the 1 or 1 1/2 inch hose clamp over the bottle neck and install bottle to weapon 1 2 3. Once the bottle is in place, position the hose clamp over the tape and tighten clamp. (Make sure there is a good seal between the tape and the inside of the bottle neck.) Check the front sight slot for any openings, and use tape if necessary, to seal any leaks.
To make the silencer even more effective, stuff some old rags into the bottle, it will cut the sound level by another 50%.
If desired, use some paint to match the “silencer” to your weapons finish.
Pipe Silencer (source: Hitman)
The directions that follow show in explicit detail how to construct a silencer for a Ruger 10/22 rifle. The same directions can be followed successfully to construct a silencer for any weapon, with only the size of the drill rod used for alignment changed to fit inside the dimension of the barrel.
The following items should be assembled before you begin:
Drill rod, 7/32 inch (order from a machine shop if not obtained locally)
One foot of 1/4 inch brake line from auto parts
One quart of fiberglass resin with hardener
One foot of 1-1/2 inch (inside diameter) PVC piping and two end caps
One yard thin fiberglass mat
One roll of masking tape
One 1/8 inch drill bit
One 3/16 inch drill bit
Handful of rubber bands
Three or four single inch razor blades
One sheet 80 grit sandpaper
Six small wood screws
One box steel wool
Cut a 10-inch section from the brake line. Drill a set of 1/8 inch holes down the
length of the tube going in one side and out the other. The holes go all the way
through. Notice in the photograph that the holes begin 1-1/2 inches from the end of the
tube that fill on the gun.
Next, take a 3/16-inch drill bit and enlarge the holes. Using masking tape and keeping the tape as free of wrinkles as possible mask off about six inches of the gun barrel and the end of the barrel. Use only masking tape. Duct tape is too thick and would make for an improper fit.
Then place the drill rod down the barrel to keep the brake tube aligned. This perfect alignment is extremely important.
If the drill rod you purchase is a little too large, as sometimes happens, put it in a
drill and using a file and sandpaper (80 grit) turn down the first six inches until
it will fit inside the gun barrel. I operate the drill from the floor with my foot, letting the rod spin between my knees as I reduce the size. Check regularly until you achieve a perfect fit. If you grind the rod too small, cut it off and start over. Fit
must be tight with no play.
Wrap glass mat around the gun and tube three times. Secure it with string or rubber bands every half-inch to keep it tight and in place. The glass should be wrapped about two inches behind the sight and up to the first hold on the tube.
Now mix the resin. About a shot glassful will do. Mix it two or three times hotter
than the package directions.
Brace the gun in an upright position and dab the resin into the glass cloth with a
stubby brush. Keep dabbling until the cloth is no longer white but has become transparent from absorption of the resin.
As soon as the glass is tacky to touch without sticking (times differs according to
weather conditions and humidity), it is time to remove the piece from the barrel. Move
First, take a razor blade and cut a notch behind the sight so the piece can be removed. Then push on the glass to slide it off. Do not pull on the tube.
After removing the gun barrel, peel out the tape and allow it to finish hardening. You must work quickly. If you let the glass harden too much on the gun, you will have to
cut it off and begin again.
Use a grinder and 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the hardening rough surface.
Next, grind the sides down about halfway, but do not grind past the point where the
front of the sight makes contact. Cut it down until the barrel fits easily and snugly.
Stand the glassed inner tube upright in a vise.
Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the
junction of the steel inner tube and glass coupling added strength.
Clean the eyedropper with acetone.
Cut the PVC tube to desired length. This one is eight inches. Drill a large hole in the center of one cap, making it large enough to fit on the glass end to the point where the sight makes contact.
Then drill small holes all around the cap at the bottom, as shown, with a 3/16 bit.
Wrap masking tape around the cap to cover the holes. Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with the tube.
Cut a lot of 1/2-inch square pieces of fiberglass matting and fill the cap with it up
past the level of the small holes.
Mix resin and pour it over the cut glass to a point about 1/4 inch above the holes and allow it to dry before removing the cap from the vise. Don’t worry about any resin that leaks out around the base hole. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong
enough to take the blast when you fire the gun.
When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and add glass around the backside of the cap for added strength as shown. Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel fits.
Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been cut to size. Center the inner tube as you look in the open end of the PVC.
Now drill a 1/8-inch hole in three places around the tube about 1/4 inch from the lip of
Take the inner tube out and enlarge the holes in the cap to 3/16 inch.
Replace the inner tube and tighten it down with three small wood screws.
Trim the inside tube down until it extends about 1/2 inch beyond the outside PVC tube.
Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use as a punch. Stand the tube up with
the solid cap down. Then drop the drill rod down the inner tube to get a true center
Find a drill bit a little larger than the outside diameter of the inner tube. Remove the cap and drill the hole.
Replace the cap on the open end of the PVC and drill three 1/8-inch holes around the cap as before for wood screw.
Grind off any inner tube that sticks out. Make it flush with the face of the cap.
Unfold the sections of steel wool and roll between palms to make strands as shown.
Feed the strands into the silencer tube in a circular motion, packing the wool tight with
a stick. Do this until the tube is completely full. Replace the end cap with the three screws.
Paint the finished silencer black and attach it to your weapons. You may want to ensure proper alignment by wrapping tape or placing a hose clamp around the extension behind the sight.
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